Restaurant Clairefontaine, Luxembourg – 15th April 2014

My longest absence from Clairefontaine I think, since I discovered it way back when Restaurant Speltz went sour in what must be like 10-15 years ago – finally ended due to good friend Jörgen who invited us for dinner as a delayed birthday present. Klaus Erfort and Il Riccio was also on my wishing list, but it was Clairefontaine that go the “the honours” 🙂

Classic menu, my favourite colours anyway

Nice to see that most of the staff in the service and kitchen were still the same, and even the “ususal” warm welcome and lots of kisses.

We ordered a la carte – I got to choose the wines and opted for a white Saint Joseph and a red Nuits-Saint-Georges 1. Cru from Prieur Roch.

The amuses comes in two rounds, first a single one followed by a double.

Round 1

Round 2 –

and last but not least

All three tasters up to the usual nice standard of amuses in Claire fontaine. Nothing to complain about here but tasters that set the tone for the evening 8p

King Crab / Green Asparagus

Or as it described in the menu – “Le meilleur du King crabe posé sur une royale d’asperges vertes Françaises, gelée de crustacés, copeaux d’asperges et tuile de tapioca au caramel de homard”. The best looking dish of the evening, and the choice of Jörgen and the missus. 9p

Carpaccio and Tartare of Wagyu with Caviar

My choice – “Le carpaccio et le tartare de bœuf Wagyu de la ferme Nuestro Buey,
asperges blanches de Malines et rapée de vieux parmesan Reggiano,
une tuile de pain avec caviar Osciètre”.

I love wagyu. I do think the quality of the meat is more exposed when raw, but I do prefer the texture of the Wagyu when a nice cut of the famous meat gets the right treatmen in the pan 🙂 But delicate it was, and the presentation typical for Arnaud´s kitchen. 8.5p

 

Salmon

Astrid´s choice for main dish was actually another starter “Le cœur d’un saumon d’Ecosse Label Rouge cuit par le froid, un tartare en tempura, une crème prise de poireaux et caviar citron”. Didier always in a good mood, did rightfully point out when ordering that this would be a cold main dish and another cold dish for Astrid. But nevertheless the salmon was ordered – and the quality of Salmon dishes at Clairefontaine is ALWAYS good. 8p

Didier making sure you have a good time

Lamb

As it turned out – “L’agneau fermier Label Rouge du Bourbonnais en déclinaison, couscous de choux fleur et brocolis au cumin, navarin aux petits légumes et harissa verte” – was the only lamb on my plates this Easter. And I´m happy it was this lamb. Three different cuts of lamb, all great in their own way. Arnaud – I think it will be lamb next time we make a cooking class 🙂 It was great as always. 9p

Dessert 🙂

The selection just what you need and a nice way to say goodbye to our lovely bottle of red. Great cheeses 9p

Best wine I have had this year

You were right Julien, it was an excellent choice 🙂

Conclusion:

9 months of absence – there are only few words needed to describe the feeling of being back. It was great. Thanks for the invitation Jörgen. I treasure your friendship, wit and knowledge. It´s always great to share food and wine experiences with you, not only because you mostly pay 🙂 – but also because we share the same passion for god stuff, and react to stuff that are trying to be more than they are, like the one experience we had in Birmingham. But at Clairefontaine, well things are still as good as they get in Luxembourg. To all the staff at Clairefontaine, we salute you.

My rating for this visit : Service 5p (5), Ambience 5p (5), Food 8.5 – Total Score  18.5p (20)

Restaurant Clairefontaine, Luxembourg – 12th February 2013

A business lunch is never wrong, when one is invited and the venue is Clairefontaine. My good friend Sam wanted to discuss a future family highlight and I was happy to offer my advice and connections and hopefully we will also provide the wines to the upcoming festive occasion.

Impressive building, impressive weather.

Sam has not been in Clairefontaine for quite a while but it was clear he felt at ease and enjoyed every minute there. From the warm greetings from the staff till the moment we left a good 2 hours later with full bellies and happy smiles.

Getting ready for service…

Here is some impressions of the a la carte dining we did.

Amuse 1

Amuse 2….

As I have stated many times before…the amuses at Clairefontaine are mostly very solid, and there is always an idea and a taste behind what you are offered. I especially today liked the fois gras thing with the crispy orange slice.

Scallops with truffles..

Or as it is described on the menu – Le carpaccio et le tartare de Saint Jacques Normandes mariés au céleri et à la truffe Mélanosporum, une vinaigrette d’échalotes confites plusieurs heures. This is one of the signature dishes of Arnaud and always return everyy now and then on the menu in basically the same presentation. I asked Sam to be the judge today. And for him it was a total balance and explosion of good taste. So he rated it a clear 10p. If I should say something negative about the dish 😉 – it would be the 4 leaves of salad, which I think did not fit in the whole picture. But man I do like the dish. 8.5p in my book.

I convinced Sam to try the waguy burger, which I had on my last occasion.

Hamburger Kobe style, with fois gras and a great reduction.

Like last time the potato chips are more potatos than chips, but I must admit I like them like that. Again Sam was over the moon with the dish, and gives it a 9p

Wake me up for this one…..

My choice today was lamb. I know Arnaud does a GREAT job when ever lamb is on the menu. Today it was one of my favourites…Lamb in different presentations. On the menu the description is again a bit more detailed I guess – L’agneau de lait en 4 versions, une déclinaison autour des légumes oubliés, un jus court infusé au thym frais et à l’ail doux. Loved it. 9p

So…full of taste and impressions…we felt no need to order dessert….but…..temptation is a devil – and so the offering of the market menu – a take on pinacolada, my favourite and not very masculine cocktail – well it had to be tried.

If you like Pinacolada…

Just like with the Banana split you get at Schloss Berg, this is all one need in a dessert. I love these takes on classic dishes or tastes. And this was my best dish of the day – even on a day where the competition was tough. 10p.

Conclusion:

We decided to end the lunch at my dining table, opening two nice bottles…yeah I know Gijs, – but I got carried away 😉 And Sam loved them both as he did todays lunch. It is always nice when you decide on a restaurant for a friend, that it lives up to expectations – or even surpass these. Today we could have been in no better place in Luxembourg. Thank you all for the great service and inspiring food. One of my best meals here ever. Sam, thanks for lunch and your friendship.

My rating for this visit: Food 9p (10), service 5p (5), ambience 5p (5), Total Score  19p (20)

“If you like Pina Coladas, and get caught in the rain.
If you’re not into yoga, if you have half-a-brain.
If you like making love at midnight, in the dunes of the cape.
I’m the love you’ve looked for, write to me, and escape.”

Restaurant Clairefontaine, Luxembourg – 14 January 2013

“It’s good to be king, – if just for a while
To be there in velvet, yeah, to give ’em a smile
It’s good to get high and never come down
It’s good to be king of your own little town”

Tom Petty 1994

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So – a few weeks ago, when publishing a list with some of my favourite dishes from last year, I got a message from one of my best friends – who spanked me for not having any dish of Clairefontaine in the top 10. Another good friend I have – could never imagine having a good lunch in Luxembourg if not at Clairefontaine.

Well, the first spanking I accept. Because there were some good dishes in there I could have chosen. But when I did the list I had no idea what would end up at the top spots. But just like with my favourite Springsteen songs…the list is constantly changing. But I do feel that all dishes on my top 10 that day deserved their ranking. But, maybe I overlooked a few strong contenders, I cannot honestly say I did not. But – so much more reason to be happy to be back at beloved Clairefontaine. Whether I was the king for a day, or Clairefontaine still is the King of Luxembourg – well I shall let you be the judge.

Table booked, in the car – 15 min later a big smile from Didier, Arnaud, Julien and the rest of the staff, what more could you want. Had a good long chat with Arnaud. Luxembourg is still only just waking up from the holidays and the city is VERY quiet.

New menu, so lots of things to choose from – but I did my homework – online – and settled for the King Crab and the Kobe Hamburger. Open wines, a  matter of trust and confidence and always exciting here at Clairefontaine, because, firstly they do not list any of our wines – yet – so no chance of recognition 😉 – secondly Julien Codet has a GOOD taste, and is slowly starting to know mine 😉 – and thirdly they know I want my wines blind if possible.

The lunch started with a Chenin Blanc, which suffered from my just finished chewing gum, but got better by the sip. The second Chardonnay, – well at least I got the grape right and Bourgogne correct, and I also guessed a Rhone blend for the red.

So…

Saumon

Slowly cooked at 42 degrees for 20 min. Great. One of the best amuses I have ever had at Clairefontaine. And I have had a few 😉

Round two…

As always you get a second round, and this was to the right a crevette on a fois gras mousse, and to the left a snail on a potato something. Great, except I avoid snails whenever I can.

King Crab on redish

What made this dish work – or even stand out was the “corail” ice cream on top, the green redish and the fine meat of the crab. What a nice combo. The mozzarella “espouma” with the “egg” shell was a crunchy companion. But I think the dish did not need it. 7.5p

Kobe Hamburger

Yeah – why not. The little brother L´Annexe has as one of their classics on the menu a “Hamburger” – with slowly braised shoulder of beef I think. This was the big brother of that one. If someone would argue that it would be a crime to mince kobe beef – well I would not know – but I know this much. This was just about the best burger I have ever had. No ketchup to disturb the delicate taste of the meat. Did I say delicate. I meant outstanding. The thin layer of cheese even made it a cheese-burger, but did not take away the focus from the meat or the wonderful reduction. French fries, soft and more like potatoes than greasy fries, and speaking as a Dane – that is a great plus. The bun perfect. If any complaints…it would be the missing pickled cucumber. I do love my cucumbers. Would fit in with the concept of a Luxury burger ? Maybe not. As a burger I would give it a good 10p. As a normal dish in my gastronomic world – well still a good 8-8.5p

Say cheese…

So our local angel – Gabriel – as always smiling, attentive, and in this case presenting the cheese. The cheese at Clairefontaine is among the best in town, and mostly what you need after a great meal. Special roasted bread is offered as well as selection from the normal bread basket. 8.5p

Conclusion:

Riders of the storm – or readers of my blog will know. Clairefontaine is as good as it gets in Luxembourg. The service under Didier on their toes to make sure you as a customer always are as comfortably and happy as possible. Julien among the best and most gentle sommeliers I know – and Arnaud – classic with an innovative touch. Today I have nothing to complain about. Really I do not. So I think you might find me back soon.

My rating for this visit: Food 8.25p (10), service 5p (5), ambience 5p (5), Total Score  18.25p (20)

It’s good to be king, if just for a while

To be there in velvet, yeah, to give ’em a smile It’s good to get high, and never come down It’s good to be king of your own little town

Read more: TOM PETTY – IT’S GOOD TO BE KING LYRICS

Best dishes of 2012 – “The Directors Cut”

Many good meals were had, many extraordinary dishes were consumed in restaurants in Luxembourg and surroundings. If you are  a returning reader you will know that my overall favourite restaurant is Schloss Berg, and Clairefontaine is my local favourite. But the best meal in Luxembourg I actually had on on the last day of May at Bouquet Garni where Mark Wright joined us before his first ever show in Luxembourg. Thank you Thierry Duhr for an outstanding meal – it was an evening where it all came together taste wise. But unfortunately no photos were taken 😦

But I thank you dear friends who made all those meals worthwhile – for what is outstanding food without the right dining partner….so thank you dear friends – Astrid, Torben, Gijs, Jerome, Serge, Richard, Pascal, Johan, Jörgen, and the changing members of the G8 group – also for the fun. Also BIG thanks also goes to the Fox Force Four – Kjetil, Frode and Uffe. See you in Beaune..

Wine wise I have had to scale down in the restaurants – but that have only given room for many new discoveries. On private basis, the joint venture with Le Caviste has spoiled me with so many new good wines I cannot start to count them, but only feel priviledged – to have tasted them,  AND to be able to sell some of those to many new customers who I am sure will enjoy them just as much as we have.

But here I shall present you with some of my best shots of some of those dishes that made 2012 a VERY gastronomic year for me.

Here you go…

10. Marbella Club Hotel

The Chef, ever so kindly suggested these beauties to us – in Spanish. Not sure what they were…except a kind of Langoustines. But they were cooked to perfection. The dinner was enjoyed with the missus and the boys.

9. De Leuf, Maastricht

I have to mention this one. NOT a fan of oysters…but this amuse was served in a Gin/Tonic version. Best oyster ever, and made promise for a GREAT evening that food wise kept the level. The dinner was enjoyed with best friend Jerome. Love you.

8. Lameloise, Chagny

I just love the arrangement of this dish. You can do few things wrong when serving lamb to me. And lamb at Lameloise is like a perfect marriage. It doesnt get any better. Eris Pras like Monsieur Lameloise before him knows his way around classic dishes. Even with a twist. I was happy to visit lameloise a few times last year, but this specific dish was enjoyed with the missus and the boys.

7. Schloss Berg

A surprice dish, – well in a surprice menu all dishes are a surprice, but this one was an extra “throw in” by my favourite chef Christian Bau. Different textures of artichoke. And within the menu on that certain evening it sure made us feel happy. Dinner was enjoyed with the missus. It was our 10 years anniversary dinner, and we could not have wanted to be anywhere else in the world on this evening,

6. Hotel and Restaurant les Florets, Gigondas

This might seem like a simple dish or presentation. But I loved this dish so much, On the last evening of our stay, I ordered it twice. Read the story on my post from that evening if you want to know the details. It was the final evening of a succesful wine trip to Rhone with new friend and business partner Gijs. The dish…Pears in red wine, nuts, beans, fois gras, artichokes. It all came together like few dishes in this world. And on a beautiful evening, knowing that one of the Chefs was the prettiest chef on this planet. Well I almost cried. Dinner was spent of course with Gijs. Thanks for your friendship and giving me the opportunity to promote and sell the wines of Le Caviste.

5. Schloss Berg, Nennig

A slightly different presentation of a GREAT dish of Christian Bau. The combination of the fois gras with the sea algae…..I tell you if you havent tried it – well you havent lived. One of my favourite dishes ever. This evening was spent with good friend and gastronomic expert Pascal. Looking forward to more of those evenings my friend.

4. De Leuf, Maastricht

Another dish from De Leuf, and another fois gras dish. This dish brought tears to the eyes of my fellow diner – best friend Jerome, who was litterally moved by this dish. So was I. And….The fois gras was combined with a piece of sole. GREAT combo.

3. Lameloise, Chagny

Cold and warm Langoustine. The cold on a an apple “thing”. The warm wrapped with crispy rice. I was lucky to have this dish on two occasions. With the FFF and with the missus on our summer holiday. Simply Stunning. This presntation was from the dinner with the missus.

2. Fischer´s Fritz, Berlin

Fois Gras again…no wonder I´m fat….but….This one…perfect fois gras on smoked eel, with caramel on top. I tell you. You dont get much more classic kitchen than in this GREAT restaurant. I have no doubt, I would rather haeve the menu at some other restaurants mentioned in this post – but – the cooking here is great.  And it does not always need to be innovative to please your palete. This lunch was enjoyed with the missus, prior to a Bruce Springsteen show. And what a show it was…

1. Falco, Leipzig

Peter Maria Schnurr…..We had such a wonderful evening “in your hands”. This dish was raw scallops with rhubarb and apple. It just worked. Like the whole evening did. Like Christian Bau, you are a true magician. There is only one regret. That Leipzig is 600 km away. I chose this dish, because, just like the one in Gigondas…it is a dish were simple ingredients can make an explosion in your mouth, and play with your senses. It gets almost sexual. You were great fun too Peter 😉

Conclusion:

Looking back at all those dishes, I know – the result – the list . would be diffferent even just now. And some dishes…like the chocolate dessert at De Leuf, the Poulard de Bresse at Clairefontaine, the Banana Split at Schloss Berg…well I could have chosen many other dishes. But one thing is sure. These dishes were all outstanding. And they each give me memories of the taste, the ambience and the people with whom I enjoyed them.

And I need to add….I did not get a chance to visit my good friend, and one of the best kitchens in Europe this year. Jan, Sölleröd Kro. Im sure you would have had a dish in here if…

Thank you dear friends…I love you all. And thanks for taking the time. Rock on.

La Mirabelle, Luxembourg – 30 October 2012

Astrid and Oscar on the road, and Emil off from school, left room for a all male lunch. Gijs joined us – and was happy to hear that I had one of his favourite spots in town on my mind.

Emil and I early as always, left time for me to decide on the wine – and settled for a Condrieu – my new favourite white. The wine list is good and often you can find a wine sold at a bargain compared to other restaurants in town. Right now they had for example top Bordeaux´s – for example Clos de Marquis from 1990 to I think 100 eur. As I understood it – from now until December this special list of old Bordeaux vintages is available,

La Mirabelle offers a menu for lunch at around 45 eur I think, and many tempting starters and main courses a la carte. The room, still not my favourite – but I do like the bar and and the wall of wines behind it. The people greet you ever so friendly – off course the greetings Gijs got when he arrived 20 min later made me feel not so VIP anymore. He was.

That is what put you in the mood for good food

This is what greets you when you enter the restaurant. A beautiful arrangement – and very appropropriate to the season.

First off was a the “usual” rillette from duck and this time a mouse/paté of salmon..

Great stuff

Both were great, and with the bread provided – this is all you need for an amuse in a restaurant like this 6p

But like my first visit this year they did not leave it at that – and like last time another round was served

Not so great stuff…..

And like on that mentioned visit, the second round was also this time a set back. The soup of  – was it courgette ? – being boring and the one to the right too creamy and not up to par with the rest of the level in La Mirabelle. It does not ruin a nice lunch, I just find it silly to serve something that brings the level down instead of inspires you to crave for the next dish.

My choice of starter

Fois Gras with bread and mirabelle compot

Great dish, nothing to complain about here. The bread being baked so the individual pieces stuck together. The Fois Gras deliscious. 7p

Veal Rossini

Great veal, great reduction, great potato gratin, 7.5p – If there is anything to “complain” about – it would be that taking a look at other dishes around in the restaurant, reveals that the same vegetables are used on many different dishes. I think this was also an argument I made in January. But they are cooked well, and I guess it brings the “Brasserie” level up front in stead of the gastronomy, and maybe that is excactly what they are aiming at. But an honest dish with not much of a fuss.

The waiters are really attentive, and especially the young female one….yeah yeah….thats how I am – but especially she did a good job in being flexible and understanding in regard to setting up a dish for Emil, who opted for Turbot with mashed potatoes.

Emil was also convinced into some chocolate for dessert.

A happy chappy…

Yes, as you can see he was very happy with that. Now every single day since Tuesday, he has asked me – Daddy – when can we go back to the restaurant with the chocolate cake ? So I guess the score on this one must be a clear 10p – it was in Emil´s book for sure. You can wipe your mouth now Emil.

My conclusion:

La Mirabelle is still very popular, lot of business suits here – its still among the bests of its kind in Luxembourg. And price wise you are a step down in compare to the michelin starred restaurants in town. With most dishes they deliver honest food, with no complications. It is the Brasserie style food  “Department” – but for sure it is the high end within those in Luxembourg.

Service is good and almost flawless. We were offered a digestive – which is never wrong in my book. It is children friendly and flexible in that respect.

As for wine list, I do think they in compare to other restaurants in that league has many good drops for you to choose from, and thats including wines from the whole world. On top of that they seem able to put out gems every now and then with a certain subject – or simply older vintages.

I hope to be back soon – and so does Emil.

Food 7p (10), service 4p (5), ambience 3.5p (5), 1 Bonus point for the wine list – and chocolate cake dessert. Total Score  15.5p (20)

Schloss Berg, Nennig, Germany – 8 August 2012

“I got a dollar in my pocket
There ain’t a cloud up above
I got a picture in a locket
That says baby I love you
Well if you didn’t look then boys
Then fellas don’t go lookin’ now
Well here she comes a-walkin’
All that heaven will allow”

Bruce Springsteen 1987

I always think of a good fairytale when I see this building…

Having a nice round anniversary to celebrate choosing our favourite restaurant as the scene was not a hard one. And having the in-laws visiting, the babysitter situation was under control and a overnight stay at the beautiful Schloss Berg was too big a temptation to say no to.

You know my affection for Schloss Berg and for the cooking of Christian Bau. The whole place embrace you, from the arrival, check-in, and later pre-dinner cocktail and amuses – you are at all time at ease and can´t help but feeling special and mighty privileged.

The missus, 10 years burning down the road….

So, expectations high, but with absolutely no worries about them not being met

Bastian, – familiar faces and recognition always appreciated – served us a great pre-dinner Tanqueray 10.

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The Gates of Heaven, not believing in any kind of afterlife, Im happy to find these doors right here – just around the corner…

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A rose for my friend Sony.

Wines were chosen, two half bottles – actually three but the third – a Condrieu was not living up to the expectations, and most likely also not to the expectations of the sommelier – the GREAT GREAT Daniel Kiowski, because it was taken from the final bill. Great judgement.

A great drop.

Best wine of the evening. Smooth, elegant.

So….all set – hold on to your hats folks, the usual “army” of amuses are just about to hit you….

Round 1…that falafel to the right…yummi.

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Round two, the tartare cornet, this time with salmon.

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Round three…crab, salmon and eel.

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Round 4 – Greetings from Italy…Tomato ice, textures of green olive and buffalo mozzarella.

Funny little thing, very fresh. I loved the return of the exploding olives.

Round  5 – Tuna, Caviar and radish. Light as heaven, tasty and elegant

So,……thats it – the amuses. All absolutely amazing and tasteful. All with a purpose and all greatly presented by the skilled staff. This is what you want.

But, you also get an idea about the fact that you have to bring the big tummy, if you settle for the big menu to follow the amount of amuses you get here. We did settle for less this time around. But even a smaller menu does the trick and here is what followed.

Japanese Ocean

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Blue Lobster

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Different textures of Artochoke from Brittany

which came with a little crispy salad

Simply lovely…

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Deer from Eiffel

Off all these dishes I think one can easily say, they were all wonderful, the cooking of fish or meat always perfect. But the vegetarian dish, the artichokes which was in fact a “throw in” surprice by Bau was outstanding.

Sweets for my sweet, sugar for my honey…

Structures of Peach “Melba” with raspberries and Champagne

Lots of things going on here. So you take a rapsberry, and it turns out it has been done moleculary and is indeed restructured. Or the peach stone – is in fact a nougat creme. Mind you this is a pre-dessert. Look at the details. That plate must take an hour to prepare. I would like to know how fast actually…20 min ? Have to ask next time.

Multivitamin – tropical fruits in different textures

Ending the menu here with a very refreshing and indeed light plate.

Final round…

I for my part ended the meal with a lovely Poire William from Alsace, generously poured by Yildiz Bau, who despite a virus was as charming and entertaining as always.

Conclusion:

I don´t think I have to tell you how much we love and adore this place. This night was no exception. Bastian, Steffi, Daniel, Yildiz, – the other service staff and all those guys behind the kitchen door made sure we had a memorable evening and a worthy 10 years anniversary. If one should have any regret, its only that money does not allow us to eat here more often. But its probably a good thing. My weight would sky rocket given the chance. Mind you the above was the small menu (!) – with the artichokes being an extra surprice dish. But that menu comes at 128 eur pp – and simply have to be the best gastronomic offer you will find almost anywhere. Be sure to book ahead in good time.

Thank you Yildiz and Christian – we will be back to celebrate our 20 years anniversary – and hopefully before that 😉

And as for you “Mrs. Bo” – Thanks for being such a big part of my life. I love you dearly, and thank you for mostly being a good sport when I have my mood swings. Rock on Astrid.

My rating for this visit:

I know Bau does not like to be rated by amateurs like me (or anyone for that matter…) But let me just say we had a perfect evening with no flaws whatsoever. You should be very proud of your team, food and restaurant – and I bet you are. Top Score my friend. A league of your own – or at least of a very few.

So – at this point – our bed was calling us – a bed that would fit a king and a queen.

Goodnight…

“Rain and storm and dark skies
Well now they don’t mean a thing
If you got a girl that loves you
And who wants to wear your ring”

Bruce Springsteen 1987

From the FWWR shop

Third wine presented by Le Caviste and FWRR is one of our most popular wines.

2009 Domaine de Reuilly – Cuvée Anne de Varennes – situated in beautilful Reuilly in the Loire region.

A GREAT wine for most fish, chicken or veal dishes.

100% Sauvignon Blanc, but aged in oak barrel. Gorgeous nose of baked bread, peach and grapefruit. On the palate complexe but with a balanced acidity. A wine to drink now, but it ages very well, having recently tried the 2006 vintage which still performs great.

Drink between now and 2015. Served cool, anything from 8-14 degrees will show different aspects of this fab wine. Goes well with medium heavy dishes -or maybe just as a great companion when you want to spoil yourself on a hot summer night with a both rich and smooth Sauvignon Blanc.

Price EUR 15,95 incl. Luxembourg VAT – per bottle – 2009 Limited stock. New vintage to arrive soon.

Please call me on +352 661187904 with your order or your questions, or write us at foodwinerr@gmail.com

Restaurant Clairefontaine, Luxembourg – 31 july 2012

“School’s out for summer
School’s out forever
School’s been blown to pieces”
Alice Cooper 1972

Even though the termometer reads 19 degrees, its high summer at this point and the boys have started their summer vacation. So I decided to continue the tradition I started last year. Going with them to my favourite terrasse in town for a boys lunch , even though – to our disappointment the dining was going to commence inside this year. Not a surprice since the weather is really tricky this year. Nevertheless, the sun came out and people arriving an hour later were blessed with both sun and al fresco dining.

Big boys….they really are growing so fast.

We were joined by Angel, the big boy of Chef Arnaud and host Edwige. A big boy himself now at 12. Nice to have some grown up chat at the table. Thanks for your company Angel.

I forgot my camera, so I apologize to you readers and to Arnaud if the photos are not quite up to par. Two rounds of (very nice) amuses – which were both tried and almost liked by the boys 😉 –  were followed by my starter:

Variations of tomato

A summer dish, typical for the style of Arnaud, and it was very nice if not out of this world. The crunchy bisquit was a great combo to the delicate tomatoes. A decent starter where the southern or even Italian  influences were clear with pesto and mozzarella etc. 7.5p

Cheeks of veal, macaroni stuffed with tender small pieces of veal shoulder or leg. Can one call that rilette of veal ?

Great dish, the meat so tender, the reduction VERY tasteful, the different preparations of carrot fitting. Really up there among the top for such a simple dish 8.5p

The menu was followed by the usual sweets and 90 min had gone, the boys, mostly due to Angel, had behaved fantastic, even though I forgot the entertainment in the car.

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Emil and Oscar both had veal on basmati rice with vegetables and as soon as the green leaf on top was removed they loved it…

“Well we got no class
And we got no principles
And we got no innocence
We can’t even think of a word that rhymes”
Alice Cooper 1972

Well we had class today. And so did the menu and wines. The wines today were chosen – and served blind as I like it – 2 white chardonnays were followed by a beautiful red. To get such a great taste from a simple appellation. Well chosen dear Julien

Nice drop.

Conclusion:

I hope dear boys we can re-do this traditon every year for many years to come. It was good practicing for the upcoming lunch at Lameloise. And you did well, if not perfect. The food was in good Clairefontaine style. I do think that meat cooking is one of Arnauds strongest sides and the veal today was no exception.

As most times we were today given the seperate salon, which allows the boys to fool around a bit. Didier was his usual charming self, playing with the boys. The staff on their toes and nothing really to complain about. Was the food out of this world ? No. but it didnt need to be. After all it was just “family guy” establishing a little bit of summer tradition and – “an education” for two aspiring gourmets. And they tried both amuses today, and the first one even without any kind of pressure. Well done my boys. You make it all worthwhile. Restaurant Clairefontaine is still holding on strong to its position as the best (terrasse!) dining in town – and among the best anyway. Thanks for having us.

My rating for this visit;

Food 8p (10) service 5p (5) ambience 5p (5),  Total Score  18p (20)

Restaurant Clairefontaine, Luxembourg – 28 June 2012

First real terrasse dining weather of this years summer. We have really had poor June weather, and our favourite terrasse in town had not been open most days.

But today it was – and a phone call later I was on my way to yet another lunch at Clairefontaine.

This is where you wanna be on a sunny day in Luxembourg.

Warmly greeted we felt at ease and “good to be back”. Didier, Julien and the rest of the staff always makes you feel welcome.

Money´s tight – and today we opted for the market menu which is a 3 course menu, including amuses, corresponding wines, water and coffee – and comes at around 65 eur I think.

First round of amuses…

Amuses, round two…brilliant presentation, tasty – all you need

As always the amuses at Clairefontaine is great, always tasty, always different, seldom out of this world, but small nice presentations that mostly shows what the kitchen of Arnaud and William is all about.

Wine suggestions for the starter…

Julien suggested both, and let us taste both before choosing one for the starter. I liked that. We both opted for the Domaine Gauby.

Gazpacho with creme of goat cheese and chorizo

Best dish of the day….just right for the 28 degrees celsius we were spoiled with 8p

Haddock with gel of red beet and salad of red beet….

Simple wine, great taste…

A simple presentation, but great to have red beet with fish. My mother used to always combine that whenever it was “fish day” way back in my youth – 200 years ago. The red beet salad inside the pastry as well as the red beet gel was really the highlights of this dish 7.5p

Strawberries in two ways…

Nice dessert, again typical for the style of Clairefontaine. The crispy layers, the smooth creme, the tasty strawberries. A nice one. 7.5p

My conclusion

As I have stated before, – this is the best terrasse dining you will find in Luxembourg. It is a quiet square not disturbed by anything – except the church bells announcing the passing of the time. The small market menu comes at a decent price, the wines are well selected, the service impecable. If I could eat here 2-3 times a week – I would. But I cannot, – and that keeps it always fresh and always worthwhile. Have I had better menu´s – better meals at Clairefontaine ? Yes. But on this day it was just about right. I will have to ask Arnaud to dig out his take on paella – which I think he did last year or the year before that.

Thanks for having us dear friends, see you hopefully soon again.

My rating for this visit:

Food 7.5p (10) service 5p (5) ambience 5p (5), Total Score  17.5p (20)

Restaurant Caves Gourmandes, Luxembourg – 22 February 2012

Thierry Duhr has now been in Luxemburg around 20 years. His top restaurant being litterally on top of this – in more than one fashion. Today I was invited to this business meeting by good friend Richard and new friend Andreas. Caves Gourmandes holds a Bib gourmand as far as I remember.

The entrance to "the dungeons"...

As you walk into the restaurant you pass the open kitchen and the smiling chefs. It must be very disturbing for the chefs at work, but they do not seem to mind. We said hello to Monsier Duhr who was in the kitchen today and his pretty female assistant.

As the name suggest, the restaurant is in fact a cave, with two semi-sized rooms, – as romantic as it gets with stone walls and electric chandeliers. The type of cooking is more “regional”, less gastronomic. You will not find any molecular cooking here. Claustrophobic people might miss a window or living daylight. But in the main season they can book a table on the small out-door terrasse. I missed some huge living candles.

I shall show you three examples of the food they serve at Caves Gourmandes. It´s food thats not pretending to be more than it is.

Salad paysanne - I think - with lovely fois gras

Great salad, I wish I could make the vinegar dressing like that. Note to myself – I will have to ask Thierry next time… Great quality fois gras, and the large butter and olive oil roasted bread pieces, wonderful. I think this dish comes at 18 eur. And for what it was it was perfect. 8p

Tartare de saumon

Again, right on spot. Generous portion. Great taste. Lacked salt and pepper, but we could adjust for that ourselves…and we did. 7p

Porc with potato mash

This cut of the porc was simply stunning. GREAT meat. The mash lacked a bit salt for my taste – again that can be adjusted for. The ratatouille was almost as good as it gets. There was a dash of lime in there to make it fresh, I almost found the lime too dominant. However, my fellow diners found it right on spot. 8p

We all opted for the same dessert – it was called Poire William and as you might know – it is served in small glasses. Great taste of pear. And not too aggresive.

My conclusion:

What amazed me on this visit was the quality of especially the young male waiter from Marrocco who seemed so much in his right element. And the female chef gave us big smiles whenever she passed the room downstairs. I like that. Smiling staff. I despise the opposite as you will know by now.

I will not call it outstanding service – but on this occasion it fitted the rest. And a smile often makes up for other short-comings. The food – with Thierry Duhr in the kitchen – was impeccable. And the concept very clear. The room for improvement lies in the wine list which is VERY limited. The candles issue is my personal suggestion, but then – I´m a sucker for romantic ambience. I cannot wait till summer, where I am sure one or two dinners will be booked on the outside terrasse.

Thank you for a great lunch Thierry, to you and your staff.

Here´s a shot of some of my best-looking friends. I hope they soon gain a few pounds. It does feel a little awkward to be a big fat Dane among you slim guys sometimes. But still, I love your company – thanks for being my friends.

We are talking Vogue material here Gentlemen...

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My rating for this visit:

I shall add a happiness point. Its not high gastronomy, but its regional food as good as it gets. On this occasion my mind wandered back to my last visit to Beaune and the two new restaurants I found there…and Caves Gourmandes was not far from that level on this beautiful day.

Food  7.5p (10) service 4p (5) ambience 4.5 (5), 1 Happiness point -Total Score  17p (20)