Restaurant Rosin, Wulfen, Germany – December 2011

“Simplicity works for me, it gets me running hard and sharp and true
I focus on the basic stuff, and pretty soon I´m coming up on you
So much clutter clouds our way, fundamentals win the day”.

Bob Seeger

Having a business dinner to attend, the road to travel was somewhat longer than normal. But ever since Frank Rosin threw us out in the third round of Topfgeldjäger it was our plan to come back and haunt him one fine day. Frank Rosin has just been awarded his second michelin star and holds 18 Gault Millau points. He has already celebrated 20 years with the Rosin restaurant situated in the corner of the Ruhr district, close to his home town.

Frank Rosin is known as the “sledge-hammer” in the show, being very critical, and only accept the best. When we participated in the show, we off course did not share all his criticism towards our dishes, but understood some of his arguments. We still feel that we had deserved a draw in the third round, and this is probably going to haunt us forever.

So I had hopes up high for finding some good points, issues to improve in his performance this evening.

“Frankie” was in the building…and a visible host throughout the evening, both at our table, but more notably on some local VIP clients. I think that the local pride “FC Schalke 04″ provides Frank with many bookings via their players and staff.

Frankie”  is a true rocknroll chef. He enjoys the limelight, and you can see he is used to being “on”. I must admit I like this style very much. Its laid back, with a lot of confidence.

The sign above the entrance...

Restaurant Rosin used to be an old fashion “Kneipe”, with a rather dark ambience. It certainly was not that anymore…

Part of the 40 seated, two-parted dining room

On the second floor of the building an appartment has been converted into a “Vinothek” with a small kitchen in front. It can be booked for parties from 6-20, and we started the evening with a lovely glass of Gosset Champagne up here.

This seemed like the perfect place to be on a cold winter night...

As you can see on the picture above, the ambience, is light, stylish, romantic, the lightning excellent, not for photos shooting (!) but for a quiet evening. I loved it, also the table setting. It does not need to be any better in my book.

First of was a good selection of bread and a nice selection of different kinds of butter…

  

3 Amuses – “Schmackofatz” were in our case followed by two starters, two mains and cheese.

"Small harvest of sweetcorn, avocado and popcorn of porc skin

Fennel and carrot

Acorda with venus mussel and heart of duck...

All the amuses was nice, not out of this world bit generally set the tone for the menu that was to follow and gave us an idea of the style of Frank Rosin and his team. 8p

First chosen starter was the the especially recommended as “not to miss” marinated tuna

Marinated Tuna with Brillat Svarin and Imperial Caviar

This dish took us all by surprice. Having expected a more tender tuna, it almost had the texture of a piece of veal, or cooked piece of tuna. As if the moist had been taken out of the tuna. Maybe this was done on purpose. It was a great dish with a generous portion of imperial caviar. But the jury is out on whether the dish/fish was really supposed to have THIS firm texture. Comments are welcome… 7.5p

Piece of Chocolate from Coffee Frois Gras

This dish truly played with our sences. By now you get a good feeling of the style of Frank Rosin, and why I choose to start this review with the lyrics from Simplicity. I shall get back to this in my conclusion. This dish was certainly carried by the left side, the generous chocolate/coffee/frois gras brick. Ever as delicate. The dish would have been more standardly placed as a dessert, so sweet was the general impression, however who am I to judge why you cannot have a sweet dish early in the menu. 8.5p

Piece of Breast and Rilette from the Gressingham duck

Again the presentation was something one could (almost) re-produce on a good day, which in my book is fantastic. Being a hobby chef this is what you want…true inspiration for your daily cooking. May I add that this dish, this duck was the best duck I have ever had in my life. Maybe my mother had cooked an equally good one once in a while in her long life, but in a restaurant…it was such a great relief to find this piece of breast cooked to perfection, not red, not rosa, but slowly cooked, and still moist even though it was well done on a  duck cooking scale. Simply loved it. The sauce the rest of the dish. Heaven. 10p

Oxe Cheek with Pumpkin and Ginger, Vacuum-fruits and Spekulatius Bread

This dish suffered mostly I think from coming just after the duck. It did not stand a chance against it, and was no compare. The cheek cooked to perfection, but the dish being a bit “on the easy side” for a two star establishment – even if the components probably was not. But furthermore I dislike the style of the bread. Having had it both in desserts and mains over the years I have never liked. The dish well, I shall be generous and give it 7p

Say cheese...

A great selection of cheese, even though they all seemed a bit crammed on the too small tray when presented. Nevertheless, the waiter took the order of the different cheeses for two persons and left to prepare the selection outside our viewing distance. And what came back was in my opinion the perfect way to present a cheese plate. 9.5p

No dessert was ordered, but wtill we got another “schmackofatz” – Frozen Chocolate with Cranberry and Vanilla and then a tasting platter with 3 different servings of pre-desserts. I dont think the presentation of this tasting platter was very lucky, where all guests around the table dig into the same portions. I am not difficult in that respect, but we all found it a bit silly and not up to par of the rest. 6p

My conclusion:

Dear “Frankie”, I wish I could slam you just a bit….but in the end we all found that this was a perfect dinner with some high points and some minor flaws. I understood most of your intentions, appreciated the simple style of the servings. Sometimes as a gastronaut/consumer/diner you are presented plates that have so many details your palete can  simply not digest. This was far from it. This was simple, honest presentations without too much of a fuzz. As I said, something to be inspired by or even re-produce (in some fashion)….

We were warmly welcomed by both the maitre Jochen Bauer and the sommelier Mrs. Spiess, greatly entertained by the young waiter and waitress, always had good wine and water in our glasses. The sommelier Mrs. Spiess did a good job in suggesting us great bottles according to our wishes. The style of Mrs. Spiess comes over as very confident and very quiet. She was voted best sommelier in Germany -but we had to wait until the last bottle to actually hear a lot of comments from her side on the chosen bottle. I do like when this has a higher focus and LOVE to discuss and hear opinions from the sommelier. But maybe she was just afraid of these Great fat Danes….but if I had one point of criticism it would be the missing interaction with the sommelier – but on the other hand I never really doubted her qualifications.

What we all agreed on was the fact that the dinner was easier to digest and actually preferable in compare to the extravaganca we had all experienced at lets say Vendome….and thats a great “Hats off”  to Frank Rosin and his team.

My rating for this visit.

Well I thought about deducting a point up-front from “Frankie” – just to pay him back from the “Topfgeldjäger Situation” but I guess it would be too personal – so fair and square…

Food 8.5p (10), service 4.5p (5), ambience 5p (5),  Total Score 18p (20)

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2 comments on “Restaurant Rosin, Wulfen, Germany – December 2011

  1. bushcook says:

    Einen vor für Frankie :-).
    Thank you for your interessting report. The Fennel and Carrot Amuse was a Carrot-Air? I already did this in a menue for friends. It is nice and easy to do.

  2. bo frederiksen says:

    Haha, Dorothea, I almost thought about including that excact line in my review. Rosin 1 up – but forgot.Thanks for reminding me…

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