Lameloise, Chagny, France – 13 November 2010

Lameloise was the first 3 star michelin experience in my life some 15 years ago. So it will always have a special place in my heart. Some years ago it lost its third star only to regain it I think two years after. Locals shook their heads when it happened and still talk about it today. For them Lameloise has been the local pride since the 1920’s (!) and for them there has been no decline in quality over the years. There has been a change in the kitchen however. Jaques Lameloise who took over the family business in 1971 to become the youngest chef in France to receive the 3 stars in 1979 has stepped aside and left Eric Pras and Frederic Lamy in charge of the kitchen, however the Lameloise family remain involved in the running of the Lameloise business.

Last year they opened a Brasserie, “Pierre & Jean” which we were lucky to visit the evening before, but  I shall come back to that in another review.

But today was the day to “pass on the torch”  to the new generation, making it both Oscar and Emils first visit ever visit to a 3 star michelin establishment. Fellow diner good friend from Norway Kjetil and his Sebastian funny enough shared that feeling. Lameloise being Kjetils first 3 star restaurant some years ago, and Sebastians first time today. So there was thats special felling in the air when entering the restaurant. Sebastian told us – where are the stars – he expected them to hang in the windows. But as Kjetil explained him, sometimes when you are that good, you dont need to show the world…the world will know.

After a rainful arrival the day before in Bourgogne, the sun came out a bit and this is what that looks like in Chagny in November

The beautiful old building of Hotel and Restaurant Lameloise

Two different tablets were served with the aperitive

Olives, Marinated Garlic and Salmon Creme

The quality of the green olives outstanding, as good as they get.

Second round of tastings...

Fois Gras, Macrel, Tartare and….I forgot. Great, especially the Macrel on Red Beet….

Last greeting from the kitchen, Fois Gras Creme Brulee and Cold Chestnut Soup

Emil, having tried mostly the bread at this point and the escargot bisquits of the second round of amuses...

Oscar was not really sure what to do with this one...better wait for the pasta...

As for drinking. The boys opted for Limonade. The grown-ups a beautiful Meursault 1. Cru from Jaques Prieur, and a Gevrey Chambertin 2008 from Meo-Camuzet, both stunning and good companions, The fruity red going very well with both the lobster, the sea bass and the beef.

A 3 course menu for small children comes at 25 eur, Breast of Chicken with pasta being the main dish. All Amuses and Greetings were also offered to the kids (nice)

Fois Gras "wrapped" in sliced Potatoes and Cabbage, topped with Truffles. Truly wonderful. Simple ingredients, wonderful result.

Langoustines

A typical classic presentation at Lameloise. Not to much of a fuzz, but clearly a kitchen who knows what to do and how to present a wonderful dish, without “re-inventing the wheel”.

Lobster with Sabajone

Old friend and fellow diner Kjetil claims two things. 1) to have (caught and) eaten hundreds of lobsters….and 2) That this was the most perfect lobster dish he had ever had. He actually had tears in his eyes eating it. Softy.

Sea Bass with Scallops

Scallops and Sea Bass cooked perfect, the Sea Bass being a bit “robust” in the taste – making this the weakest dish of the day.

Beef Charolles with Vegetables

This was my main dish. Great basic cooking and presentation. However, I do prefer old fashioned braised or grilled meat. I am little bit tired of meat being cooked to perfection at 48 degress during x hours. I want a bit more roasted crust, a bit more variation with the given piece of meat. But perfectly (slowly cooked) it was. Call me old fashioned.

What a beauty, the pre-dessert, great great Mango. I do love Mango.

 

Chocolate dessert

As good as the first time. Some things dont ever need to change. I remember having more or less the same presentation 15 years back.

and then came the sweets….

First round...

and the last round.

Conclusion

For me the legend is still there, so is the “romance”. I love the old rooms, the service, the wonderful bread, the classic presentations of good produce, cooked to perfection and ever so beautifully presented. I am happy that this pearl remains alive and kicking – and I am sure the new team will keep Lameloise at this top level. In compare to other of my favourites, for example Le Cinq in Paris, the service is a bit more distant. Its friendly and as good as it gets, and they are very good with the children – but it is not as “family-like” or “young” as I do prefer. But I guess a bit of old fashioned top service is good to experience once in a while, and thus know that some things in the world do not need to change. Add a huge wine list and the rest of Bourgogne just around the corner, you will leave happy and content – and you will be sure to have spend some memorable hours in the hand of people who clearly know what they are doing. I am happy that the next visit is already booked, even if half a year away.

As for the boys including visitor Sebastian from Oslo. Whenever you get a big older and read this -let it be known, that there were 3 proud parents in the room today (Siri, you would have been too). We know that we sometime expect a lot from you…sitting on a chair for 3 hours among other…..but you did so very well today as throughout the whole Bourgogne trip, a trip that was short on childrens activities and heavy on dining and drinking. Thanks for making parenthood all worthwhile. Big boys. We hope someday you will pass the torch on to your offspring. And by the way…thanks to Nintendo…without whom….

http://www.lameloise.fr

My rating for this visit: Food 9p (10), service 5p (5), ambience 5p (5), total score for this visit  19p (20)

Advertisements

8 comments on “Lameloise, Chagny, France – 13 November 2010

  1. Mabel Gasca says:

    Hello handsome!

    I love your blog!

  2. bo frederiksen says:

    Thanks Mabel, that means a lot coming from you…hey and you look pretty on my blog.

    Thanks again for your comment, truly appreciated.

  3. Jonna Bonde says:

    Hejsa Bo & Astrid!
    det ser kanon ud, i guder hvor flot 🙂

  4. bo frederiksen says:

    Coming from a chef, I guess you are right. You tend to forget when you are in the middle of it….but I truly enjoyed.

    Thanks for your comment…and see you soon. Your wine is here.

  5. S Lloyd says:

    When I was in France, I was focusing way too much on the 2 and 3* dining Parisian scene(with few exceptions outside of the capital city, like Bras when he was at his primetime. Also enjoyed the classics like Bocuse, Pont de Brent in Montreux, etc). I do regret this, nowadays since I realize that I missed great tables outside of Paris like Lameloise. Thanks for your amazing review on Lameloise: indeed, each of those meals look enticing. Tell me: did the children gave their opinions on the food? What did they think of it? I think you are doing a great thing in introducing them to great food. It will interesting in years from now, to see if they still preferred the simply delicious homey fares of their childhood over their michelin finest meals.

  6. bo frederiksen says:

    Lloyd, thanks again for your time and comments. As for the children and dining. I think what they really appreciate is a good piece of bread/roll. Pasta yeah, a potato maybe, a piece of meat…once in a while. So in that respect they had it all this time. We try to make at least Oscar try whatever is put in front of him…as with the chestnuts, and tell him not to make a face if it does not hit his taste. In pre-school Emil will ask for second and third portion of salad. With us, he close to dies if there is just a piece of basil in his pasta. I do think it is never too early, but have also realized that with good food – and children we should not expect too much as parents. So I have concentrated on the behaving part, look people in the eye when you say bon-jour, sit correctly, dont have your arms on the table, break the bread off when you eat it, embrace the room, say merci whenever someone give you anything etc. etc. etc.
    Oscar can ask for the bill in 4-5 languages no kidding (makes me proud), however I still have to pay it.

    Oscar was told that this was among the finest places in the world to eat, but I think he was too concentrating on reaching the next level on his Nintendo to truly accept it. As for the Nindtendo. It is only given after the main course, and there is no shouting nor noice from the machine accepted. Did I ever think about how my kids should not play Nintendo in retsuarants like other kids…hell I did. Am I happy they do….you bet.

  7. S Lloyd says:

    Ah cool. That was surely a lot of fun.
    Have a nice week, Bo

  8. Klara says:

    Every detail somewhat leaps off the page…

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s