Mosconi, Luxembourg – 14 July 2010

Chef: Ilario Mosconi, Michelin rating: 2 stars, Millaud rating: 17 points. Furthermore Luxembourg guide Explorer voted Mosconi best gastronomy restaurant in the country 2010.

Situated in the picturesque Grund in Luxembourg, the restaurant looks like a little Jewel next to the river. A small terrasse leads you into the beautiful reception area. A lift brings you to the first floor where 2-3 small rooms beatifully decorated with flowers and soft colours awaits you. A small storm had jus hit town, so dining was inside, which I prefer anyway.

The Alzette running through Grund

How a table should always look, white - inviting....

Simonetta Mosconi, the Mrs. is in charge of your well-being and she is also taking your order.

I have not been to this restaurant for a few years due to the previous poor service (understaffed) and relatively high pricing, even for Luxembourg. The food and the ambience was mostly flawless. Little has changed though the service was much better yesterday if not perfect. The prices seems to have taken a step-up even….most starters around 30-40 euro, pasta dishes around 35 eur, and main dishes around 45 eur, desserts all priced at 18 euro. So an a-la-carte menu of 3 dishes will set you back 100 euro. A big wine list with a huge mostly Italian selection.

Soya Ice cream with olive oil and carrots !

The first appetizer (apart from a small bisquit) was the highlight of the evening, what a soft stunning taste 10p

Creme of Spinach

Very nice, strong taste, smooth texture…we were on the way…7,5p

A company of 4 – we all ordered 4 different starters and 4 different mains. My judgement is thus taken from the respective person as well as my opinion of the presentation of the dish inquestion.

Variety of tomatoes

A very well presented dish, another tasting a small iced tomato soup with balsamich vinegarwas added on the side 8p

Fois Gras with creme of haricots blancs and 25 y. balsamico

My choice and a beautiful dish. 9.5p

Pappa al Pomodoro, basically Lobster on tomato

Most expensive starter at 49 eur (!) Are we in Paris ? -Unfortunately a bit unsharp, the shooting. 7p

Ricotta stuffed flowers of Zucchini

Funny presentation, only in “Italy”, the flowers being penetrated by a Zucchini, 6p

Ravioli de Ricotta, with parmesan and butter, classic

Very simple looking – and tasting homemade pasta – 6p

Sole on potatos and vegetables

Flawless,but not exiting. 6p

Porcelet, diferent cuttings.

My dish, good taste, but also not exploding in my mouth. Very pure and simple taste. 7.5p

Spaghetti a la ghitarra - Pasta like at home with tomatos, mozzarella etc.

Lacked taste, spices….one of the weakest dishes of the day 4p

Predessert, creme with Italian sweet wine....and marengs.

Only 1 of the company really liked this one…3p

Added sweets...

Strawberries with black olives and basil ice !

This just one of the 3 desserts, but the best looking – did not go well with the missus. She did not like the combo. 3p

Conclusion

It seemed like the meal dropped a good bit during the evening, rating the starters higher than the mains, and the mains higher than the desserts. There were a good overall quality in produce and presentation, but some dishes were really not up to the two star rating, let alone 1. But the service had improved a bit, the waiters seemed less stressed than on previous visits. But we had to wait 15 min after choosing the wine to order it, and thats never nice. The water was often not poured when needed. By the way the food was accompanied by a lovely fresh 2007 Friuli Chardonnay from Ronco del Gnemiz at 62 eur per bottle. The sommelier suggested this instead of my choice of a similar bottle at a few euros less. Thats always nice, a sommelier with an opinion. I would not know if he was right.

Having dined with the same people half a year earlier at Schloss Berg it was natural for us to compare price experience etc. Knowing the small menu at Schloss Berg starts at 130 eur and we here were at around 100 eur, the most obvious conclusion and feeling is that you get a great lot more for your last 30 euros.  Both food and service wise. Asked the question – if Schloss Berg cooks close to perfection at lets say 10 – how should we rate this dinner, the prompt answer from the table was 5 – 6 and 7. One guest claimed “I much prefer Clairefontaine” …

Reception, aperitif room...

But, the ambience is second to none, Mrs. Mosconi smiling, the food on a relatively high level. I generally find the service very stiff and un-personal here, but maybe thats just because I am not a regular.

My rating for this visit: Ambience 4,5 (5) Service 3 (5) Food/Wine 6 (10) : Score 13.5 out of 20.

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2 comments on “Mosconi, Luxembourg – 14 July 2010

  1. Maria F. Orr says:

    Thank you Bo.
    Do you recall what the two pureed sauces accompany-ing the stuffed zucchini were?
    Hope the storm has passed,
    Maria

  2. bo frederiksen says:

    One sauce was of young peas…young peas were on a lot of the dishes, seems to be in fashion.

    The storm made the temperature drop 10 degrees yesterday from 34 to 24, and today has been the same…24ish…much better thank you.

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