Lameloise was the first 3 star michelin experience in my life some 15 years ago. So it will always have a special place in my heart. Some years ago it lost its third star only to regain it I think two years after. Locals shook their heads when it happened and still talk about it today. For them Lameloise has been the local pride since the 1920′s (!) and for them there has been no decline in quality over the years. There has been a change in the kitchen however. Jaques Lameloise who took over the family business in 1971 to become the youngest chef in France to receive the 3 stars in 1979 has stepped aside and left Eric Pras and Frederic Lamy in charge of the kitchen, however the Lameloise family remain involved in the running of the Lameloise business.
Last year they opened a Brasserie, “Pierre & Jean” which we were lucky to visit the evening before, but I shall come back to that in another review.
But today was the day to “pass on the torch” to the new generation, making it both Oscar and Emils first visit ever visit to a 3 star michelin establishment. Fellow diner good friend from Norway Kjetil and his Sebastian funny enough shared that feeling. Lameloise being Kjetils first 3 star restaurant some years ago, and Sebastians first time today. So there was thats special felling in the air when entering the restaurant. Sebastian told us – where are the stars – he expected them to hang in the windows. But as Kjetil explained him, sometimes when you are that good, you dont need to show the world…the world will know.
After a rainful arrival the day before in Bourgogne, the sun came out a bit and this is what that looks like in Chagny in November
The beautiful old building of Hotel and Restaurant Lameloise
Two different tablets were served with the aperitive
Olives, Marinated Garlic and Salmon Creme
The quality of the green olives outstanding, as good as they get.
Second round of tastings...
Fois Gras, Macrel, Tartare and….I forgot. Great, especially the Macrel on Red Beet….
Last greeting from the kitchen, Fois Gras Creme Brulee and Cold Chestnut Soup
Emil, having tried mostly the bread at this point and the escargot bisquits of the second round of amuses...
Oscar was not really sure what to do with this one...better wait for the pasta...
As for drinking. The boys opted for Limonade. The grown-ups a beautiful Meursault 1. Cru from Jaques Prieur, and a Gevrey Chambertin 2008 from Meo-Camuzet, both stunning and good companions, The fruity red going very well with both the lobster, the sea bass and the beef.
A 3 course menu for small children comes at 25 eur, Breast of Chicken with pasta being the main dish. All Amuses and Greetings were also offered to the kids (nice)
Fois Gras "wrapped" in sliced Potatoes and Cabbage, topped with Truffles. Truly wonderful. Simple ingredients, wonderful result.
Langoustines
A typical classic presentation at Lameloise. Not to much of a fuzz, but clearly a kitchen who knows what to do and how to present a wonderful dish, without “re-inventing the wheel”.
Lobster with Sabajone
Old friend and fellow diner Kjetil claims two things. 1) to have (caught and) eaten hundreds of lobsters….and 2) That this was the most perfect lobster dish he had ever had. He actually had tears in his eyes eating it. Softy.
Sea Bass with Scallops
Scallops and Sea Bass cooked perfect, the Sea Bass being a bit “robust” in the taste – making this the weakest dish of the day.
Beef Charolles with Vegetables
This was my main dish. Great basic cooking and presentation. However, I do prefer old fashioned braised or grilled meat. I am little bit tired of meat being cooked to perfection at 48 degress during x hours. I want a bit more roasted crust, a bit more variation with the given piece of meat. But perfectly (slowly cooked) it was. Call me old fashioned.
What a beauty, the pre-dessert, great great Mango. I do love Mango.
Chocolate dessert
As good as the first time. Some things dont ever need to change. I remember having more or less the same presentation 15 years back.
and then came the sweets….
First round...
and the last round.
Conclusion
For me the legend is still there, so is the “romance”. I love the old rooms, the service, the wonderful bread, the classic presentations of good produce, cooked to perfection and ever so beautifully presented. I am happy that this pearl remains alive and kicking – and I am sure the new team will keep Lameloise at this top level. In compare to other of my favourites, for example Le Cinq in Paris, the service is a bit more distant. Its friendly and as good as it gets, and they are very good with the children – but it is not as “family-like” or “young” as I do prefer. But I guess a bit of old fashioned top service is good to experience once in a while, and thus know that some things in the world do not need to change. Add a huge wine list and the rest of Bourgogne just around the corner, you will leave happy and content – and you will be sure to have spend some memorable hours in the hand of people who clearly know what they are doing. I am happy that the next visit is already booked, even if half a year away.
As for the boys including visitor Sebastian from Oslo. Whenever you get a big older and read this -let it be known, that there were 3 proud parents in the room today (Siri, you would have been too). We know that we sometime expect a lot from you…sitting on a chair for 3 hours among other…..but you did so very well today as throughout the whole Bourgogne trip, a trip that was short on childrens activities and heavy on dining and drinking. Thanks for making parenthood all worthwhile. Big boys. We hope someday you will pass the torch on to your offspring. And by the way…thanks to Nintendo…without whom….
http://www.lameloise.fr
My rating for this visit: Food 9p (10), service 5p (5), ambience 5p (5), total score for this visit 19p (20)
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